teak decking for boats

TEAK SINTETICO PER BARCHE

TEAK SINTETICO PER BARCHE

Dek-King teak sintetico per barche ha un rapporto esclusivo con l’estetica ed in particolare la possibilità
di essere scambiato con un legno naturale; toccandolo ve ne potrete rendere conto e posato ed adattato, 
difficilmente è riconoscibile come materiale plastico. Con DEK-KING vi sembrerà di camminare e toccare 
veramente legno pregiato.
Il prodotto è vincente sul piano della resistenza e della manutenzione; praticamente un rivestimento che 
risente in modo minimo delle alterazioni climatiche e delle intemperie. La manutenzione inoltre è molto 
limitata rispetto ad un materiale naturale classico.
Da non mettere in secondo piano, l’utilizzo di questo materiale è altamente ecologico in quanto derivato 
palstico e frutto di studi su resine sintetiche ad alta resistenza. 
La sua flessibilità, la possibilità di utilizzare attrezzature specifiche per il taglio e la facilità di 
posa rendono DEK-KING imbattibile sul piano della flessibilità d’uso.
Raccordi con finitutìre di prima qualità, la possibilità di abbracciare strutture complesse ne rendono un 
utilizzo quasi indispensabile per la realizzazione di strutture dal particolare design come ad esempio piscine.

Tek Sintetico

Qual’ è  il prezzo del teak sintetico?

Mentre il vero teak massello non ha un prezzo specifico in quanto il costo lo si fa in base allo spessore, la larghezza, la lunghezza e la qualità delle doghe, il teak sintetico ha sempre lo stesso costo. Quindi è inutile paragonare i due prezzi in quanto succede che a volte costa meno il vero teak, a volte di più ed a volte costano uguali.

MANUTENZIONE Del TEAK SINTETICO

Uno dei principali motivi per il quale ci si orienta sul sintetico, è la manutenzione ed is suoi costi. Ricordiamo ancora una volta che il teak sintetico ha manutenzione bassisima ed è proprio questo il vero risparmio. Non serve olio per proteggerlo, non servono sbiancanti, non servono detergenti appositi per il lavaggio. Non serve mai rifare la gommatura nuova. Non serve lavarlo dopo ogni uscita in mare per levare il sale. Non assorbe nessun tipo di liquido e non si macchia. Provate a chiedere a chi ha il vero teak soprattutto chi va a pescare, a quanti lavori è sottoposto per tener in ordine una coperta in vero teak. Tante altre caratteristiche a favore del sintetico le troverete qui sottostanti …

Però il colore non è molto bello, si vede che è teak finto… a me non piace!

Vi assicuriamo che la maggioranza delle persone non si accorge della differenza (quanto vi dico è stato riscontrato in tutte le fiere che facciamo) in quanto questi prodotti sono realizzati cercando perfino di imitare le venature/striature del vero legno, quindi se ben preparati ed applicati, è davvero difficile distinguerli. Se poi consideriamo quante qualità ha rispetto al vero teak…  E’ ovvio che un sintetico non sarà mai identico al vero legno, ma i costi parlano da soli!   E se proprio non vi piace beh,  se avete soldi e volontà, il vero teak non è ancora terminato !!!

Ma è vero che il teak sintetico scalda tantissimo?

Il teak sintetico per sua natura, è una mescola di PVC, quindi putroppo questo lo rende sicuramente più caldo del vero legno. Altra caratteristica è che il teak sintetico è FINTO e come tale non può cambiare colore se non di un qualcosa impercettibile all’ occhio umano, mentre il vero teak al contatto con gli agenti atmosferici quali sole ed acqua, si ossida e il suo colore diventa grigio/bianco. Ebbene, a scuola ci hanno insegnato che tutti i colori chiari attirano meno calore di quelli scuri, quindi è ovvio che il vero teak risulti di 5/6 gradi meno caldo di quello sintetico.  La prova a dire la verità andrebbe fatta camminando scalzi su del vero teak appena montato e sul sintetico appena montato, fidatevi che non c’ è questa gran differenza… Va precisato che la percezione del calore in ognuno di noi è differente per nostra natura quindi è inutile ascoltare chi vi dice la sua… Volete un consiglio? Acquistate un pezzo di teak sintetico e fate una prova da voi, così come si dice… tagliate la testa a toro!

Ma non esiste la possibilità che si scollino le doghe e filtri l’ acqua sotto coperta?

La stessa possibilità ce l’ avete con una coperta in vero teak.  Quindi la risposta è assolutamente no, in quanto le doghe prima vengono incollate fra di loro e poi il tappeto intero viene incollato sulla barca… Ovviamente deve essere un lavoro ben fatto.

PER QUALI MOTIVI IO DOVREI APPLICARE SULLA MIA BARCA IL TEAK SINTETICO?

Molto semplice… perchè:

- E’ più duraturo del vero teak massello;

- E’ un’alternativa meravigliosa alla coperta in legno e può essere applicato su qualsiasi superficie, incluso vetroresina, acciaio e legno;

- E’ molto simile alla tradizionale coperta in legno e offre tutti i vantaggi che un prodotto così avanzato può fornire.

- Ha una superficie sottostante a coda di rondine. Questi incastri formano una chiusura meccanica molto resistenti quando vengono affogati nello strato di adesivo polimero, impedendo i classici problemi di scollatura delle doghe in coperta;

- E’ un ottimo antiscivolo anche quando estremamente bagnato;

- Non scolorisce e non si deteriora a contatto con gli agenti atmosferici, anche se con il passare del tempo tende leggermente a cambiare colore;

- L’ installazione non richiede fori di alcun genere ne tanto meno tagli sulla superficie della coperta che compromettono l’integrità della navigabilità dell’imbarcazione;

- E’ abbastanza facile da installare ma spesso più difficoltoso del legno in quanto è indispensabile avere un ottimo piano di incollaggio. Inoltre è fondamentale fare fuoriuscire tutta l’ aria che tende a restare intrappolata sotto al tappeto! Se si viene a creare una risacca d’ aria, durante l’ estate questa dilata (escursione termica) e rigonfia la coperta da sotto, creando uno spiacevole effetto estetico;

- Non richiede manutenzione ordinaria, non si macchia e non assorbe olio, benzina, gasolio, grasso, caffè, sangue. Basta una semplice lavata con acqua ed un normale detergente;

- Per breve tempo resiste al fuoco;

- E’ flessibile ed arrotolabile come un vero tappeto, pertanto in caso di particolari coperte con geometrie difficili e grandi,  la spedizione risulta più vantaggiosa;

- Durante la lavorazione del materiale, e’ importante indossare una mascherina per proteggere le vie aeree ed un paio di guanti!

Teak Decking for Boats

TEAK DECKING FOR BOATS

teak decking for boats

Introduction

When a durable deck surface is required on Boats, Ships, Yachts, Pontoon Boats and other water craft,  teak decking for boats provides the ideal properties. Teak can enhance the visual appearance of any deck and can provide good grip characteristics especially when wet. When in a  dry state teak is easy to work and takes adhesives well.

Deck Thickness

Deck thickness for any type or size of boat is largely determined by structural requirements. Teak is laid using one of three methods:

The traditional method - whereby the real wood teak is sawn into strips up to 19mm thick and applied directly to a metal, GRP or wood surface.

The thin veneer method - here the teak is only 5-6mm thick (before finishing) but the total deck thickness is made up by laying on to a plywood base (perhaps 8-10mm thick) using adhesive. This method saves weight since only a thin layer of teak is used. However, life expectancy is still over 15 years even with heavy use.

The Synthetic Teak Decking - whereby a mat made out of PVC planks which look and feel like real wood teak are applied directly to Wood, GRP or Steel surface.

Adhesives

An MS-Ploymer based adhesive such as Saba Sealtack 750 is the best decking adhesive to be used with Artificial decking, such as DEK-KING Decking, on GRP, Wood or Steel boats.It has a 35 hour curing time and once it cures it will bond the pvc profiles to the deck of your boat. No special primer is required before application.

A two-part solvent-free epoxy adhesive is another alternative  to bond veneer teak or thicker teak material.

When iy comes to reaql teak or veneer teak, ete same adhesive should be used for all bonding operations but if the thin veneer method is employed, an 8-10% addition (by volume) of Graphite powder will give the necessary colour for the adhesive that is seen between the planks. This will also give the glue some ultra-violet protection.

General Teak Preparation

Before any bonding commences, determine the layout pattern of the teak strips. This applies for Real wood, Faux teak and Veneer teak. They can be either parallel to the centreline or parallel to the sheerline. The former method is more commonly used since the grain of the teak will be oriented in the most effective way to resist deck compression loads; it is also the quickest procedure and probably the only choice if the traditional planking method, using thick sections, is used.

The teak strips should be ‘quarter sawn’, a technique which ensures that the edge grain is on the flat surfaces. Teak cut this way not only wears more slowly and more evenly than ‘plain cut’ teak but also has the least expansion and contraction. Strips 40-50mm wide are the normal width for ease of handling and the length should not

exceed 3m.

When cutting teak for the thin veneer method the strips should be cut no more than 6mm thick so that after sanding the finished thickness is 3-5mm. If the thickness exceeds this figure the inevitable expansion and contraction which occurs, and which is normally constrained by the epoxy adhesive, may exceed the bond strength of the adhesive causing it to split at the wood/adhesive face.

Preparation of Surfaces

Real Wood Teak Surfaces

After cutting the teak all bonding surfaces should be sanded with a coarse abrasive paper (40-60 grit) across the grain in order to obtain a good key, followed by cleaning with liberal quantities of a fast epoxy solvent).

Other Wood Surfaces

All screw holes and other surface imperfections should be made good with epoxy filler. Polyester-based fillers should be avoided as they may inhibit the cure of the epoxy adhesive. After sanding with a coarse grit paper the surfaces are cleaned thoroughly with a fast epoxy solvent). Ideally the wood or plywood surface is coated with 2 coats of an epoxy system using a fast hardener to give adequate protection against moisture. If possible both sides should be coated. After allowing at least 24 hours to cure the surfaces are wiped with cleaning fluid and sanded using 60-80 grit paper prior to bonding the teak. Particular attention should be given to sealing all end-grain if plywood is used as a base.

GRP

All surface coatings must be removed (paint, non-skid coatings, etc.). If the deck has a moulded-in tread it should be ground away with a coarse sander down to the laminate. A small angle grinder with a flexible sanding pad is ideal. Before bonding the teak all sanding dust should be removed and the surface cleaned with a fast epoxy solvent). Acetone is not recommended as it may contain undesirable contaminants. If bonding to a new GRP surface it is important to determine whether the laminate is fully cured, since epoxy will not bond satisfactorily to a less than fully cured polyester laminate. From the time the boat was first started the elapsed period for this is usually between 2 and 4 weeks at normal temperature. A small preliminary test is advised to ascertain when a good bond can be obtained.

Aluminium Boats

It is important for the best adhesion that all bare aluminium is pretreated with an Aluminium Etch Primer before bonding. It is likely that some filling will be necessary which can be done using the chosen epoxy system with the addition of glass bubbles and colloidal silica. After sanding and solvent cleaning using a fast epoxy solvent, bonding can commence. If the deck shows any significant distortion it is simpler to adopt the thin veneer method using a plywood base which will serve to fair the surface.

Steel Hulls

Steel surfaces coated with an epoxy holding primer should be coarse sanded and cleaned thoroughly with a fast epoxy solvent

Application Methods

Composite Decking

This method uses planks made out of recyclable decking material. The decking comes in 10 metre lengths which are 5mm thick and can be 5cm / 15cm wide. There are a number of profiles available which will accommodate any installation. The mat creation is very easy, even for beginners. It is less time consuming when compared to real wood decking or veneer installations. The profiles come with a male and female edge for easy installation. We can compare this synthetic decking installation with a home parquet flooring. On our website we prepared an easy Boat decking Installation instructions.

Conventional Decking with Teak

This method of construction should not be confused with ‘traditional’ method of planking, where the planks are laid directly over deck beams and notched into the king plank down the centre and meet a covering board down the sides. Here no adhesive is used (the only fastening method being screws or nails) and the seams are caulked and payed with a marine stopper or hot marine glue. The conventional method differs in two important respects. Firstly, a flexible caulking compound is used between the seams and an adhesive is used to fasten the strips down to a solid base (which may be plywood, GRP or metal). Secondly, the teak strips can be thinner (but not as thin as the veneer method), perhaps 19mm thick, and they are screwed down to the base material (in the case of wood) or bolted (metal or GRP). Since plywood is lighter than teak, some weight saving can be made over the traditional method and the deck is likely to be stronger and leak-free. On production GRP or metal hulls a flexible elastomer adhesive sealant such as  Saba 750 or Sikaflex are sometimes used instead of epoxy adhesive to bond the teak directly to the GRP substrate and the same product is used to lay the seams.

Being apparently no less effective than using the more rigid adhesive technique it may be more convenient for manufacturers, since the preparation is far less intensive. After all of the teak planks have been fastened into position the gaps between are payed with a flexible sealant, either a polyurethane elastomer type such as ‘Sikaflex’ or polysulphide rubber type such as ‘Arbocol’. Teak plugs should be glued into all screw or bolt holes and left proud of the surface.

The Thin Veneer Method

This method uses a suitably thick plywood base, pre-coated with epoxy system, upon which are fastened teak veneers no thicker than 6mm. An epoxy adhesive mix, pigmented black by addition of graphite powder, is used to both glue the strips down and fill the gaps between the strips. The strips are usually held in position by stapling every 10-20cm and the gaps between the strips maintained at a constant width (usually 3-4mm) by the insertion of spacing pieces, usually of plastic.

The use of a temporary clamping bar will ensure the minimum number of staples piercing the teak veneer. The bar, usually of wood approximately 10mm thick and protected with polythene, is laid at right angles across a number of strips at a time. Staples are then driven through it into the plywood base at a spacing corresponding to the gaps between the teak strips, thus bedding all the strips into the adhesive at the same height. When the glue has sufficiently cured the bar is removed. Sufficient adhesive should be applied to the teak and bare plywood to squeeze out and fill the gaps between the teak strips.

Finishing

When the sealant and the adhesive mix has cured, the synthetic material is sanded with a 40 or 60 grit sandpaper. All other surfaces are sanded with 50 grit paper. On large open surfaces a floor sander is best but a hand operated belt or rotary sander is adequate. We do not recommend a belt / rotary sand on synthetic decking materials. With the conventional method of teak decking, only the minimum of wood is removed but in doing so the excess flexible sealant is removed and the teak plugs are faired in. With the teak veneer deck, sufficient teak should be removed by sanding to bring the thickness down to a finished thickness of no more than 5mm. Any remaining filling of the gaps can be completed at this stage with additional graphite epoxy mix and a final sanding with 80 grit paper used to finish the deck.

For more information please visit www.teakforboats.comPlease see this link for other teak decking installation instructions

Marine Teak Decking

Marine Teak Decking

Marine teak decking is mostly used for boat flooring. It will enhance the looks of any boat. For many years, natural wood teak has been used for this purpose. For the past years the synthetic alternative teak was introduced in the market, which is cheaper than real teak and is also easy to maintain.

Many boat owners opt for teak flooring additions in order to preserve a more appealing look and reduce certain hazards that are common on the waters, such as slippery surfaces.

The composite decking option for interior and exterior flooring options can be used on any boat type. From Pontoon Boats to Cabin Cruisers to Jet Skis - Steel boats, Aluminium boats, Fiber glass boats and even wooden boats. The composite teak offers several advantages to composite teak rather than the full-on real thing. Composite teak will last longer because it is composed of pvc. It has a greater aesthetic product life and durability. It is pre-manufactured so that it can be put together easily and it is virtually maintenance free. It provides aesthetics and safety appeal in being both non-slippery when dry or wet and resistant to staining. Composite teak provides an anti-fungal surface, which is ideal for marine decking for long-term upkeep. And it can be pressure washed, unlike some materials that have to be chemically treated or repaired because of pressure wash erosion. So one's experience on the water with family and friend can be even more relaxing with the floors taking care of themselves with the construction material.

When you are ready to go out on the water but your vessel needs new marine decking, consider the alternatives to the traditional options

 

Boat Decking

BOAT DECKING

All our boat decking panels are  high quality products; a result of years of experience in boat carpentry and woodwork. Our suppliers constantly invest in product development and product improvement.  By visiting the DEK-KING Products Page you will notice that we have an extensive range of decking profile to suite every boat decking installation.

We test our profiles to ensure the meet our stringent quality standards and we never promote new products before they have been proven to take the toughest test by Mother Nature and of course the demand of all our valued customers.

Our prefabricated boat decking system was developed for production boat builders but it has also great advantages for private customers and professional installers. DEK-KING is a synthetic teak panel and it is made of composite materials. All our materials are 100% recyclable.

Boat Decking

In a recent boat show we attended we placed a real wood teak panel and a boat decking panel made out of our material. We challenged our visitors to select identify which panel was wood and which panel was made out of synthetic decking material. They were even allowed to touch the surface of both panels. Everyone agreed that the two panels looked and felt the same.

DEK-KING is sold in 10 metre lengths (rolls)  to boat manufacturers, boat yards or to the yacht owners.

We also offer the prefabrication service of the panels from a template which customer send us, but this depends on the load we have at the time of  your order or your location. If you are interested in the product but would like to do the templating and installation yourself, we would like to invite you to visit the Boat Decking installation page.

We take pride in knowing that we provide the all around highest quality product in the synthetic teak industry. We know that you have a choice when it comes to selecting a product for your boat, and being able to work with a product that was built by boat enthusiasts and experts alike, you’ll receive top-notch integrity and quality to our product.

  • Maintenance Free. No Curing, Sealing, or Oiling!

  • Non-Slip

  • Doesn’t Grey, Blemish, or Fade Over Time

  • Won’t Stain – A Quick Rinse and You’re Set!

  • 5 year Product Guarantee

  • Has Withstood the Wear and Tear of Cruise Boats in the Scorching Middle East for Eight Years with no Blemishes, Fading, or Bubbling.

  • Easy to Install – Do it Yourself, Pre-Fabricated Mats or Full Service Install!

As synthetic teak decking for boats is becoming more and more recognized throughout the boating community, it is important that we remain a cut above the rest. The Dek-King product is like no other. It gives a look and feel that simply cannot be duplicated.